20 Extravagant Foods in Times of Restraint
Each year, we look at the ways in which people are using food as a form of self-expression. To our surprise there are still many examples of excess – expensive and exclusive experiences that feel disconnected from the current reality. In most households, food inflation is felt deeply and expected to accelerate.
Perhaps there’s a connection.
Just as comfort food is used to bring joy, curb anxiety and feed the soul – could extravagance do the same? In contemporary society, where food provides ‘a story to tell,’ it’s been suggested that “the way we eat becomes proof of how well we are living: how in control, how informed, and how committed to the project of self-optimization.” Premium food, in this context, is how we reward ourselves in times of restraint.
Here are some options.
Grocery
The last few years have catapulted fresh produce to luxury goods status. We’ve seen everything from celebrities with enviable gardens (hoping for an invite, Ina!) to a viral trend amongst parents sarcastically lobbying for support for their “berry fund.” This year? A $395 ruby-colored, Del Monte pineapple.
Others?
- Dubai’s $980 cup of coffee, brewed with Panamanian beans for a floral, fruity flavor
- Kinmemai Premium, the world’s most expensive rice, with only 1,000 boxes produced each year
- An heirloom bean (Rancho Gordo) subscription designed for “bean enthusiasts”
Restaurants
While we’ve missed the Chocolate Sculpture Auction by French pastry chefs last December, the $1,500 per head Noma pop-up in Los Angeles this past spring, and the $38 French Dip from the recent U.S. open there are plenty of other opportunities:
- A $2,700, “24K Pizza” at Industry Kitchen in NY, topped with stilton, foie gras, caviar, truffle, 24k gold, and requiring 48 hours’ notice
- The $1,000, 20-course tasting menu at Somni in Los Angeles
- Hot stone Kobe beef from Mastro’s Steakhouse, just $240 at any of two dozen locations
- A $95 bottle of luxury water sourced from an iceberg (and water sommelier) at Virginia’s Inn at Little Washington
- A labor-intensive black pepper cheeseburger from Common Craft in Boston, with a limit of 35 sold per night
Thankfully, over-priced offerings aren’t the only route to bragging rights. Enter the oddities.
- Supperclub.Tube in London, a six-course meal served on a decommissioned subway car
- A meal at the bathroom-themed Modern Toilet restaurant in Taipei City
- The Roadkill Cook-Off, occurring on the last Saturday in September in Marlinton, WV, with dishes prepared from animals normally found dead on the highway
- Utopia beer, a 30% alcohol brew illegal in 15 states
- Cocktails at an F1 Arcade location, after an intensive ride in “cutting edge” simulators
- Butter made from air and water (Savor) at San Francisco bakeries One65 and Jane the Bakery
- The Not Fried Chicken ice cream bucket from Life Raft Treats in South Carolina, now available to ship nationwide
- A throwback to pre-inflationary times…affordable bars like Franks Wild Years ($12 or less), Carla ($13 or under) and Five Dollar Bar, in Washington, D.C.
While the above are examples of expression through food extremes, we’ll close with ideas to foster it. For consumers, consider beautiful packaging that contributes to the “kitchen couture” aesthetic – think Fishwife tins, and Brightland bottles, clear plastic storage (OXO collab?), or a fridgescaping gift-with-purchase. With employees, make it competitive – Walmart’s cake decorators are the highest paid hourly workers in the store, and Starbucks just held its first global barista championship. For yourself, take on a “white whale” recipe – something even food writers find difficult, like fresh bread, pasta, or pie crust.
Katherine Plueger
Vice President, Strategy & Insights at JT Mega
Katherine Plueger conducts category, competitive and consumer research to develop the actionable insights that lead to better strategy for our clients.
